You've probably noticed that as soon as you drop your ride height, those stock 67-72 c10 front wheel tubs start becoming a real headache for your tire clearance. It's the classic C10 struggle. You want that low, aggressive stance, but the moment you turn the steering wheel or hit a slight dip in the road, you hear that dreaded "scrub-scrub" sound coming from the front end. It's annoying, it ruins your tires, and let's be honest, it's a bit embarrassing when you're cruising at a show and your truck sounds like it's grinding itself into dust.
Replacing those factory inner fenders with aftermarket wheel tubs is pretty much a rite of passage for anyone building a 67-72 Action Line Chevy. Whether you're just doing a modest drop or you're planning to lay frame on air bags, you're going to run into space issues. The factory tubs were designed for narrow, bias-ply tires and a whole lot of ground clearance. Once you throw on some 20-inch wheels and a modern suspension kit, that original metal is just in the way.
Why the Stock Inners Have to Go
If you look at the engine bay of a bone-stock 1970 C10, those inner fenders look massive. They take up a ton of room, but they don't actually offer much clearance where you need it most. They're shaped with a lot of gentle curves and indents that were great for 1960s manufacturing but terrible for 21st-century wheel fitment. When you lower the truck, the top of the tire gets uncomfortably close to the top of the tub.
If you're running a "High Hump" factory setup, you might have a little more breathing room, but most guys find out quickly that it's not enough. Once you start talking about a 4/6 or 5/7 drop, you're living on borrowed time with your fender liners. If you go lower than that—especially with bags—the stock 67-72 c10 front wheel tubs are essentially a physical barrier preventing your truck from getting as low as it wants to be.
By switching to aftermarket tubs, you're usually getting a flatter top surface or a higher "hump" that allows the tire to tuck way up into the fender. This doesn't just help with clearance; it completely changes the vibe of your engine bay. It makes everything look intentional and custom rather than just "lowered until it hit something."
Choosing the Right Style for Your Project
When you start shopping around, you'll see a few different styles. The most common choice is the "high-hump" replacement. These look a lot like the factory pieces but are modified to provide an extra couple of inches of clearance. These are great if you want to keep a relatively stock appearance under the hood but need that extra bit of "oomph" for your 20s or 22s.
Then you have the full custom tubs, often called "Slosh Tubz" or similar names depending on who's making them. These are usually much more rounded and smooth. They get rid of all the factory ridges and mounting points for a super clean, "shaved" look. These are the go-to for show trucks because they allow you to hide a lot of the clutter.
Another thing to think about is the material. You can find these in steel, aluminum, or even fiberglass/composite. Steel is the most popular because you can weld to it, paint it to match the body, and it's tough as nails. Aluminum is awesome if you're looking to save a few pounds or want that raw, race-inspired look, but it can be a bit more finicky to mount if you aren't used to working with it.
The Domino Effect of New Tubs
Here's the thing no one tells you until you're halfway through the job: replacing your 67-72 c10 front wheel tubs isn't just about the tubs themselves. It's about everything attached to the old ones. The factory inner fenders are basically the "utility closet" of your engine bay. They hold the battery tray, the coolant overflow tank, the windshield washer reservoir, and a massive chunk of the wiring harness.
When you pull the old tubs out, all that stuff is suddenly hanging in mid-air. You've got to have a plan for where it's all going to go. Most people end up relocating the battery to the frame or under the bed. It's a bit of extra work, but it cleans up the engine bay so much that it's usually worth the effort. You'll also probably need to get creative with your wiring. You can't just let those wires drape over your nice new tubs; you'll want to tuck them away or run them through the fenders for that "pro-touring" look.
Measuring and Clearance Checks
Before you go out and drop a few hundred bucks on a set of tubs, you really need to know how much room you actually need. A common mistake is buying tubs that are too narrow for the tires you plan to run. If you're running a wide front tire—say a 245 or 255—you need to make sure the tub is deep enough toward the engine to cover the tread at full lock.
The "full lock" part is crucial. It's easy to clear the tub when the wheels are straight. It's when you're trying to pull into a parking spot or make a U-turn that the tire angles out and tries to eat your new metal. I always suggest mocking things up with a piece of cardboard or even just eyeballing it with the old tubs removed to see where the tire's swing radius ends up. If you're running a big brake kit, that can also change the offset and push the wheel out further, making the tub clearance even more critical.
Installation Tips for the DIY Crowd
Installing a set of 67-72 c10 front wheel tubs isn't exactly a five-minute job, but it's definitely doable in a weekend if you're handy with some basic tools. Most of the high-quality kits are designed to bolt in, but don't be surprised if you have to do a little bit of "massaging" with a hammer or a grinder. These trucks weren't exactly built with laser precision back in the 60s, so every C10 is a little bit different.
One of the biggest hurdles is the hood hinges. On many of these trucks, the hinges mount in a way that interferes with high-clearance tubs. You might need to look into aftermarket hinges or some hinge-pocket modifications to make everything play nice. It's one of those things that can catch you off guard if you haven't done your homework.
Also, don't forget about the inner fender-to-fender seals. If you want to keep road grime and water from splashing all over your engine, you'll want to make sure the new tubs seal up well against the outer fenders. Some guys use a bead of seam sealer, while others prefer a rubber gasket. Whatever you choose, just make sure it's tight, or you'll be cleaning your engine every time you drive through a puddle.
Finishing Touches and Paint
Once the tubs are in and you've verified that your tires aren't going to rub, it's time to think about the finish. Since the 67-72 c10 front wheel tubs take up so much visual real estate under the hood, they really define the look of the engine bay.
Some people like to paint them the same color as the exterior of the truck. This makes the engine bay feel like an extension of the body and looks very "finished." Others go with a satin or semi-gloss black. The advantage of black is that it hides shadows and makes the engine itself pop. Plus, if you ever get a little rock chip or a scratch from working on the truck, black is a lot easier to touch up than a custom metallic paint job.
If you're going for a more rugged or industrial look, you can even look into spray-on liners or textured coatings. It's a bit more durable and does a decent job of dampening the sound of rocks hitting the underside of the tub.
Wrapping Things Up
At the end of the day, upgrading to a set of 67-72 c10 front wheel tubs is one of the best moves you can make if you're serious about your truck's stance and drivability. It solves the clearance issues that plague lowered C10s and gives you a much cleaner canvas to work with under the hood.
Sure, it involves moving some wires and probably relocating your battery, but that's just part of the fun of building a classic truck. When you can finally air out your suspension or take a sharp corner without that soul-crushing sound of rubber hitting metal, you'll know it was worth every bit of the effort. Just take your time, measure twice, and enjoy the process of making that Chevy sit exactly how it was meant to.